The Splendor of Flower Power

The City of Joy is always going to be expurgated without the Howrah flower market at the Mullick Ghat. Situated underneath the magnificently towering Howrah bridge, along the South Strand Road, this is one of the biggest and, in arguably, the busiest flower markets in the entire Asia. This Ghat was originally built sometimes before 1793, by Noyan Chand Mullick and was known as the 'Noyaner Ghat'. Ram Mohan Mullick, Noyanchand's descendant, renovated and re-established the present day Mullick Ghat on 1855, and since then the glory of this Ghat has continued unabated.

As one walks into the flower market, getting down the steps of the Howrah bridge, a strong whiff of both floral perfume and putridity take over the senses. Commotion starts at the Ghat early in the morning, by 4-6 AM, and the walks, the bargains, the sales and the show go on till late afternoon. The hustle and the bustle of the market is closely synchronized with the vendors, buyers, and porters, all singing the songs of their petals of various colours and colognes. The dull pink of lotus, the bright yellow and orange of marigold, the whites of tulips, water lilies, night jasmine, and 'togor', a flower indigenous to West Bengal, the gorgeous sunflower, the dusty pink, red and saffron of hibiscus, and the versatile roses capture the imagination and romance the eyesight.

The flowers are mostly cultivated in the Bagnan area of Howrah district and the Kolaghat region of the Midnapore district. Economically, the market fares well, as the net profit for the sellers, both small peddlers spreading out their stocks by the roadside and the wholesalers enticing you from their makeshift stalls, varies between 1.5 lac to 5.5lac per annum. Aside from the middle aged women, with a dominant air, stringing up the scarlet hibiscus buds in the celerity of express mails, to strapping young Spartans shouting and bargaining on the top of their voices, to betel leaf painted silent toothy smile of aged men holding bunches of sunflower, to about ten years old lads coaxing you to buy the humble 'togor' and marigold from their meagre stocks, this plaza jostles with human warmth and character. This very character of the market is further apparent in overcoming calamitous events.

his forum of floral perfumes is a visual treat for the buyers, photographers and art enthusiasts alike. The bright colours and scent of the flowers can be gauged from afar. The smell of rotten wasted petals too will accentuate your senses with equal fervour. The perennial Hooghly river receives both gracefully. If one reaches the market at early hours, the traditional wrestling practice arenas or 'akhadas' nearby will be another route to Kolkata's heritage. Unexpected scenes, too, unfold amidst the cacophony of the market, such as, in the narrow lanes full of flowers and men, suddenly five to ten porters bearing chunks of marbles or curved wooden planks to an unknown destination can throw you off your wit. Small flower-like children get lost and found here. Young women drape their braids with jasmine strings to romance their summer evenings here. Gods and goddesses get decked up in lotuses and marigolds smiling softly at their devotees here. With the dying sunlight of the dusk, the roses and tulips glide effortlessly into the brass household vases here. As the waves of the river ripple on, so do the tales of Mullick Ghat Rialto here.

* A collaborative article with Nairita Ghosh, photographs by Thasil Suhara Backer